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Herbal insights into melanin synthesis: Enhancing hair health naturally

Abstract

Melanin, a natural pigment found in many organisms, determines skin, hair, and eye colour and protects against UV radiation.
In hair, melanin is synthesized by melanocytes through melanogenesis, involving several enzymatic steps.

There are different types of melanin:

  • Eumelanin, which provides darker hair tones and stronger UV protection.

  • Pheomelanin, found in lighter hair and offering less UV resistance, making it more vulnerable to oxidative stress.

Reduced melanin production over time causes hair to grey with age. Beyond colour, melanin supports scalp and hair health, influencing hair growth and vitality — making it crucial for both aesthetic and protective roles in human hair biology.

Keywords: Melanin, UV damage and radiation, Hair aging, etc.

Introduction

The majority of creatures, including humans, contain the complex natural pigment known as melanin.
It exists in several forms, each with unique properties and biological functions.
This section explains melanin’s definition, types, and its essential roles in human physiology.

Melanin: What Is It?

Melanocytes are cells that produce melanin. In humans and animals, melanin determines the colour of skin, hair, and eyes — and is also found in tissues such as the brain and inner ear.

Hair colour and condition are mostly determined by melanin. Beyond giving natural hair colour, it influences how hair responds to treatments and environmental factors.

Although melanin doesn’t directly control hair growth, it contributes to scalp and hair health.

According to professional hairstylist Nikki Goddard, melanin also provides photoprotection — shielding hair from UV rays.
Dark hair, rich in eumelanin, is more resistant to UV radiation and deterioration than lighter hair that contains more pheomelanin.

Melanin Synthesis

Melanocytes are specialized cells responsible for melanin creation — a process known as melanogenesis.
These cells are found in the skin, hair follicles, and eyes. Melanogenesis is a multi-step biochemical process involving several key enzymes.

Steps in Melanin Synthesis:

  • Tyrosine Uptake: Tyrosine (an amino acid) is absorbed by melanocytes from the bloodstream.

  • Tyrosine to Dopaquinone: The enzyme tyrosinase converts tyrosine into L-DOPA (3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine), which is then oxidized to dopaquinone.

  • Eumelanin Synthesis: Dopaquinone transforms into dopachrome and undergoes further oxidation and polymerization, forming the dark eumelanin pigment.

  • Pheomelanin Synthesis: When cysteine is present, dopaquinone forms cysteinyl-DOPA, which leads to pheomelanin — a yellow-to-red pigment.

 

melanin synthesis

Role of Melanin in Hair

Hair Colour [8]

  • Eumelanin: Gives hair its dark brown to black hues. The distribution and quantity of eumelanin define whether hair appears brown or black.

  • Pheomelanin: Produces red and yellow tones in hair. It is present in people with red or blonde hair.

  • Distribution of Melanin: The wide range of hair colours is determined by the ratio and density of pheomelanin to eumelanin in the hair shaft.

Hair Aging [9]

Hair greying occurs when melanin production declines with age.
As melanocyte activity decreases, less melanin is produced, leading to the gradual loss of hair pigment and the appearance of grey or white hair.

UV Damage and Radiation [10]

Pheomelanin
a) Less Protection: Compared to eumelanin, pheomelanin provides less protection from UV radiation. Individuals with higher pheomelanin levels in skin and hair are more vulnerable to UV damage and have an increased risk of skin cancer.
b) Oxidative Stress: When exposed to UV light, pheomelanin can generate free radicals that cause oxidative stress and damage to skin and hair cells.

Eumelanin
a) Slower Lightening Process: Hair with higher eumelanin content lightens more slowly under sunlight because eumelanin is more resistant to UV-induced degradation.
b) Less Oxidative Damage: Eumelanin reduces UV-related oxidative damage, protecting hair structure and helping prevent colour loss and brittleness.

Herbs Used for Improving Melanin Synthesis

Almond

Biological Source: Obtained from the seeds of Prunus amygdalus (also known as Amygdalus communis) and/or Prunus amygdalus var. amara (bitter almond), belonging to the family Rosaceae [11].

Phytoconstituents:
Almonds contain fixed oils, proteins, and mucilage.
The oil is rich in unsaturated fatty acids such as linolenic acid.
Bitter almonds also contain amygdalin, a notable glycoside [12].

Chemical Constituents [13]:

  • Flavonols

  • Proteins

  • Vitamins

  • Glycosides

Amla (Indian Gooseberry)

Phytoconstituents:
Amla fruit is a rich natural source of Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid), containing about 600–700 mg per 100 g of fresh pulp.
It also includes approximately 0.5% fat, phyllemblin, and 5% tannins [11].

Chemical Constituents [13]:

  • Essential oils

  • Tannins

  • Gums

  • Alkaloids

  • Albumin

Mode of Action

Nutrient-dense foods like almonds may help maintain hair health by supporting the production of melanin, which is essential for pigmentation.
The following almond constituents contribute to these benefits:

Vitamin E (Tocopherol) [14]

  • Role in Hair Growth: A potent antioxidant that protects hair follicles from oxidative stress, a major cause of hair loss and damage. It also improves scalp circulation, ensuring vital nutrients reach the hair roots.

  • Melanin Synthesis: Vitamin E helps protect melanocytes (the cells that produce melanin) from oxidative damage. This protection can help preserve natural hair colour and delay premature greying.

Use: Almond is traditionally used to promote hair growth [13].

Vitamin B7 (Biotin) [15]

  • Role in Hair Growth: Biotin is essential for the synthesis of keratin, the protein responsible for hair’s structure and strength. Adequate levels of biotin are associated with reduced hair loss and healthier hair growth.

  • Melanin Synthesis: Although biotin does not directly influence melanin synthesis, a deficiency can lead to brittle, dull hair and may alter its appearance and colour.

Amla (Indian Gooseberry)

Biological Source: Derived from the dried or fresh fruits of Emblica officinalis Gaertn. (Phyllanthus emblica Linn.), family Euphorbiaceae [11].

Mode of Action [16]:

  • Antioxidant Effect: Rich in Vitamin C, a strong antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals — unstable molecules that can harm cells, including those vital for melanin synthesis and hair growth.

  • Protection of Melanocytes: Vitamin C helps protect melanocytes and hair follicles from oxidative damage, supporting healthy pigmentation and delaying greying.

Use: Amla is widely used to treat hair issues such as premature greying, hair fall, and hair damage [13].

Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera)

Biological Source: Comprises the dried roots and stem bases of Withania somnifera Dunal, family Solanaceae [11].

Phytoconstituents: Contains bioactive compounds such as Withanolides, Somniferine, and Pseudowithanine [17].

Chemical Constituents [18]:

  • Alkaloids

  • Flavonoids

  • Steroids

  • Saponins

Bhringaraja (Eclipta prostrata)

Commonly known as False Daisy, Bhringaraja is well recognized for its traditional use in promoting hair growth and pigmentation.

Key Phytoconstituent:

  • Wedelolactone — the main active compound responsible for stimulating hair follicles and supporting melanin balance [24].

Chemical Constituents [13]:

  • Steroidal alkaloids

  • Flavonoids

  • Phenolic acids

Mode of Action

Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera)

Traditional Ayurvedic medicine uses ashwagandha, an adaptogenic herb, for various health benefits — including hair growth and stress balance.
Although its direct impact on melanin synthesis is not fully proven, several mechanisms may explain its positive effects [19].

  • Antioxidant Activity:
    Withanolides in ashwagandha possess strong antioxidant properties. These compounds help reduce oxidative stress in hair follicles, preventing damage that leads to hair loss and premature greying [20].

  • Hormonal Balance:
    Ashwagandha helps regulate hormone levels, especially cortisol and thyroid hormones.
    By lowering cortisol, it can reduce stress-related hair loss. Its support of thyroid function also indirectly promotes healthy hair growth [21].

  • Melanin Production:
    While not conclusively proven, ashwagandha’s antioxidant and hormone-balancing effects may help maintain melanin levels, keeping hair colour vibrant and slowing greying [22].

Use: Commonly used in both traditional and modern wellness practices for stimulating hair growth and supporting melanin synthesis [23].

Bhringaraj (Eclipta alba)

Biological Source: Whole plant of Eclipta alba, family Asteraceae [11].
Phytoconstituents: Major compound Wedelolactone, known for promoting hair growth and pigmentation [24].

Chemical Constituents [13]:

  • Steroidal alkaloids

  • Flavonoids

  • Phenolic acids

Mode of Action:
Bhringaraj is traditionally believed to stimulate melanin synthesis, helping retain natural hair colour and encourage strong, healthy hair growth [25].

Use: Used for blackening and strengthening of hair [13].

Bibhitaki (Terminalia bellirica)

Biological Source: Fruits and leaves of Terminalia bellirica, family Combretaceae [26].
Phytoconstituents: Contains tannins, gallic acid, ellagic acid, and saponins [27].

Chemical Constituents [28]:

  • Flavonoids

  • Glycosides

  • Fatty acids

  • Saponins

Mode of Action:

  • Antioxidant Action: Flavonoids and phenolic compounds help combat oxidative stress, protecting follicles from free radical damage and promoting a healthy scalp [29].

  • Anti-inflammatory Properties: Reduces scalp irritation and improves blood circulation, ensuring better oxygen and nutrient supply to hair roots [30].

  • Nourishing the Scalp: Saponins help cleanse the scalp of impurities, promoting a clean, balanced environment for hair growth [31].

  • Strengthening Hair Roots: Tannins provide astringent effects, tightening and strengthening roots to prevent hair fall [32].

  • Improving Hair Follicle Health: The combined action of antioxidants, minerals, and anti-inflammatory agents supports overall follicle vitality [33].

Use: Beneficial for dandruff, itching, hair loss, and folliculitis.
Bibhitaki nourishes the hair from root to tip, keeping it strong, shiny, and naturally black [34].

Black Sesame Seeds (Sesamum indicum)

Biological Source: Seeds of Sesamum indicum, family Pedaliaceae [11].
Phytoconstituent: Sesamin, a key compound known for promoting hair and melanin health [35].

Chemical Constituents [36]:

  • Lignans

  • Fatty acids

  • Phytosterols

  • Tocopherols

Mode of Action:
Black sesame seeds are highly regarded in traditional medicine for enhancing melanin synthesis and improving hair vitality.
Their nutrients nourish the scalp, strengthen follicles, and may help slow greying while promoting growth [37].

Use: Rich in essential nutrients that nourish the scalp and encourage healthy, thick hair growth [38].

Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera)

Biological Source: Dried kernels of Cocos nucifera, family Palmae [11].
Phytoconstituent: Lauric acid [39].

Chemical Constituents [13]:

  • Phenols

  • Tannins

  • Flavonoids

  • Steroids

  • Alkaloids

Mode of Action:

  • Deep Penetration: Lauric acid’s molecular structure allows it to deeply penetrate the hair shaft, reducing protein loss and strengthening hair [40].

  • Moisturization: Acts as a natural conditioner that locks in moisture, preventing dryness and breakage [41].

  • Antimicrobial Action: Contains fatty acids (lauric and capric acid) with antibacterial and antifungal effects, helping prevent scalp infections and dandruff [42].

  • Anti-inflammatory Effects: Soothes the scalp and reduces irritation, creating a healthy environment for growth [43].

Use: Widely used to prevent hair loss and maintain strong, healthy hair [13].

Curry Leaves (Murraya koenigii)

Biological Source: Leaves of Murraya koenigii, family Rutaceae [13].
Phytoconstituent: Beta-carotene [13].

Chemical Constituents [13]:

  • Essential oils

  • Proteins

  • Minerals

  • Vitamins

Mode of Action [44]:
Curry leaves are rich in essential nutrients and antioxidants that promote melanin synthesis and hair growth:

  • Vitamins A, B, C, E: Support scalp health, hair strength, and cell regeneration.

  • Vitamin A: Boosts sebum production for a moisturized scalp.

  • Vitamin B Complex: Regulates metabolism and prevents hair thinning.

  • Vitamin C: Protects follicles from oxidative stress and supports collagen formation.

Use: Strengthens hair fibers, promotes rapid growth, and helps retain hair shine and colour through amino acid nourishment [13].

Ginseng (Panax species)

Biological Source: Dried root of Panax species such as P. ginseng, P. japonica, P. notoginseng, and P. quinquefolium, family Araliaceae [11].

Phytoconstituents:
Primary compounds are Ginsenosides (Panaxosides), containing aglycone dammarol and oleanolic acid [11].

Chemical Constituents [11]:

  • Ginsenosides

  • Panaxosides

  • Chikusetsusaponin

Mode of Action [45]:

  • Stimulates Hair Follicles: Ginsenosides activate hair follicles and extend the anagen (growth) phase.

  • Improves Scalp Health: Anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects maintain scalp cleanliness and vitality.

  • Enhances Blood Circulation: Increases nutrient and oxygen delivery to hair roots.

  • Provides Antioxidant Protection: Shields hair follicles from oxidative stress and environmental damage.

Use: Commonly included in shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks for scalp nourishment and hair growth stimulation [46].

Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis)

Biological Source: Whole plant of Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, family Malvaceae [47].

Phytoconstituents: Tannins, steroids, alkaloids, and amino acids [13].

Chemical Constituents [48]:

  • Flavonoids

  • Saponins

  • Phenols

Mode of Action – Hibiscus [49]

Hibiscus contains amino acids that enhance blood circulation in the scalp, stimulating hair growth and strengthening hair shafts to prevent breakage. It also acts as a natural conditioner, making hair softer, shinier, and more manageable.

Use:
Hibiscus extract has long been used in Ayurveda for treating various ailments, including hair loss and premature greying. [13]

Licorice Root

Biological Source:
It consists of the roots of Glycyrrhiza species (Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch, Glycyrrhiza glabra L., or Glycyrrhiza inflata Bat.) belonging to the family Fabaceae. [50]

Phytoconstituents:
Glycyrrhizin, Liquiritin, Glabridin, Polysaccharides [51]

Chemical Constituents:

  • Flavonoids

  • Isoflavonoids

  • Coumarins

  • Sterols [52]

Mode of Action:
Licorice root is thought to promote hair growth through multiple mechanisms:

  • Anti-Inflammatory Effects: Glycyrrhizin and related compounds reduce scalp inflammation, supporting a healthy environment for hair follicles. [53]

  • Antioxidant Activity: Rich in flavonoids and other antioxidants, licorice root helps neutralize free radicals, reducing oxidative stress and protecting hair follicles. [54]

  • Hormonal Modulation: Licochalcone A may inhibit 5-alpha reductase, an enzyme that converts testosterone into DHT—a hormone linked to hair loss. [55]

  • Moisturizing Properties: Polysaccharides in licorice root help maintain scalp hydration and reduce irritation. [56]

  • Scalp Health Improvement: Its antibacterial properties keep the scalp clean and prevent infections that can hinder hair growth. [57]

Use:
It is used for nourishing the hair and promoting healthy growth. [58]

Triphala

Biological Source:
It consists of fruits of Emblica officinalis (Indian gooseberry), Terminalia bellirica (Belleric myrobalan), and Terminalia chebula (Chebulic myrobalan) belonging to the family Combretaceae. [59]

Phytoconstituents:
The major active compound found in Triphala components is gallic acid. [60]

Chemical Constituents:

  • β-sitosterol

  • Ethyl gallate

  • Galloyl glucose

  • Chebulaginic acid [61]

Mode of Action [62]:
Triphala, when consumed as tea with warm water, improves blood circulation, stimulating hair follicles and helping to treat scalp disorders. Vibhitaka, one of its components, exhibits antifungal and antibacterial properties that maintain scalp health and support strong hair growth.

Use:
Used to stimulate the hair follicles and roots, promoting healthy hair growth. [63]

Conclusion

Melanin plays a vital role in determining hair pigmentation, protection, and overall health. Its synthesis—a complex biochemical process—depends on the balance between eumelanin and pheomelanin, and it provides essential UV protection to hair and scalp. With age, melanin production declines, leading to greying hair and loss of color vibrancy.

From the study, numerous natural herbs—including almond, amla, ashwagandha, bhringaraj, bibhitaki, black sesame seed, coconut oil, curry leaves, ginseng, hibiscus, licorice root, and triphala—demonstrate significant potential in enhancing melanin synthesis and promoting healthy hair growth.

Rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and bioactive compounds, these herbs strengthen follicles, delay greying, minimize hair loss, and improve scalp health. Their continued use in traditional and modern practices highlights the importance of holistic, natural approaches to maintaining vibrant and healthy hair.

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